The Leaning Spire of Salisbury--Day 44

Ah, what a great day I had today! We had an absolutely glorious trip weather-wise. The sun was shining all day, and the temperature was just right--a bit cool but refreshingly so. Our bus was a bit late, but we didn't mind waiting for it. Our first stop of the day was the famous ruins at Stonehenge, whose origins are shrouded in mystery. Some think they were built by the druids for religious practices, but there is evidence that the stones existed for at least 1000 years before the druids (circa 3000 BC). So, in effect, the druids just used what was already there. There are other, less credible stories involving (respectively), King Arthur, the devil, and aliens, but I like the idea that some ancient culture (probably pagan because the shadows of the rocks align in a certain way and the sun rises directly between two of the pillars on the solstices) built them for worship. Interestingly enough, there are other stone circles like these nearby that are even bigger than Stonehenge. It makes me wonder why Stonehenge is the most famous. Is it the oldest? Was it discovered first? I just don't know. But the ruins were quite impressive. They stand in a lovely patch of countryside around which sheep graze placidly as the crowds walk around the stones. The site even has an artists rendition of what the stones would have looked like when they were first built, which was great for comparison and for trying to understand the purpose of the stones. It was so nice to get out and walk in the fresh air, away from the stifling atmosphere of London.

This picture gives you a good idea of the different sizes and shapes of the rocks used in the monument.

This picture offers a pretty good approximation of what the site originally looked like.

An artist's rendition of Stonehenge as it once was.

After about half an hour at Stonehenge, we continued our journey toward Salisbury. Just outside the city are the former grounds of Old Sarum, a stone fort on top of a hill overlooking the city. Obviously, the fort did not overlook the city in its heyday, but it does now. The site has gone through numerous occupations and desertions throughout its history, beginning with a tribe in the Iron Age (500-50 BC). It was vacated after the Roman Conquest, a relatively peaceful time, and then reoccupied by the Saxons in 500 AD. It continued to be used until the time of King Henry VIII (the early 1200s), when it became clear that there were certain disadvantages to having a fort up on a hill (being exposed, high winds, etc). The castle was moved to the valley, and the cathedral that once stood on its grounds was begun in the new city, which was christened New Sarum or Salisbury as we now call it. The "new" cathedral is the focal point of Salisbury, and its spire can be seen from miles away. Having explored the fascinating ruins of Old Sarum, we made our way down into the valley to visit Salisbury.

One of the walls surrounding the courtyard (the grassy section) of Old Sarum.

The ruins of the old Salisbury Cathedral.

Augie students walking around the perimeter of the old castle.

Present-day Salisbury (notice the spire) from the ruins of Old Sarum.

Our first order of business in Salisbury was lunch. I had packed a sandwich and apple to save money, but when my friends decided to go to the famous Red Lion pub for lunch, I thought it might be best to order something so as not to seem rude to the restaurant. The courtyard of the Red Lion is so quaint! It radiates medieval charm. There is ivy growing on the walls and whimsical statues of an owl, a cat stalking a bird, and the titular red lion himself. In fact, the whole town of Salisbury radiates charm. There are cute, narrow cobbled streets and adorable shop fronts done in the traditional brown-and-white exposed-beam-and-plaster style. There are also covered walkways with shops and a charming little brook with swans and ducks swimming in it and all different colors of roses growing near it. Anyway, I ordered myself some tea and a chocolate caramel shortbread. It was a delightful pick-me-up. I am really going to miss good English teas when I get home. They are such a beautiful copper color and are simply fantastic with cream and sugar. I don't think I will ever drink another cup of tea without milk or cream after this trip. The service was a little slow, which is typical of England, and any other day, I might not have minded it, but we needed to get to the cathedral, so we payed as quickly as we could and high-tailed it out of there.

The courtyard of the Red Lion.

The Red Lion himself with red ivy growing next to him (quite a dazzling effect).

Sarah, Elizabeth, and Haley enjoying the atmosphere of the Red Lion. Aren't they adorable?

My afternoon snack: shortbread and tea with all of its accompaniments.

A swan with some of his (her?) duck friends (although they do fight pretty bitterly when anyone tosses a bit of bread into the water).

Yellow roses for friendship.

Red roses because, well, they're a classic.

 We caught up with the rest of the group just in time. An admission fee is charged to enter the cathedral, so it's a good thing we were on time. Just from the exterior of the church, I could tell it would be awesome. The spire of the church is a marvel all its own. It stands 404 feet tall, the tallest in the UK, and it leans slightly (architects say it is off by two feet). I also really admired the beautifully carved flying buttresses on the sides of the church, but nothing on the outside of the church could compare with its interior. This cathedral is a perfect example of a Perpendicular Gothic church. Its ceilings are so high that they are dizzying to look at. As usual, the stained glass was fantastic, and I loved all of the intricately designed arches that combine to support the immense height of the church. Salisbury Cathedral is an important location not only for its architecture but also for its Chapter House. I learned that a chapter house is where one chapter of the Bible is read each day, but this Chapter House is even more special because it contains one of the original copies of the Magna Carta, signed in 1215. As you may know, the principles delineated by the Magna Carta form the basis of our own U.S. Constitution--the right not to be imprisoned without a fair trial judged by one's peers, the right to be free, the right to have a say in one's government, etc. It was so cool to see this history-changing document in person. Another interesting feature of the cathedral is a clock that has been running since 1396. It is obviously a very rudimentary clock, only telling the time every 15 minutes with a gong (the gong has been silenced because it is disruptive). The cathedral also has a beautiful fountain in the center with a few words of Scripture written on it in gold lettering. I found these words very encouraging. The best part of the cathedral (for both of us) is that people can take pictures, so I can show you its highlights! (No pictures of the Magna Carta, though...I'm pretty sure the paper is photosensitive.)

Salisbury Cathedral, a well-loved subject of the painter John Constable (one of my favorites because of his amazing cloudscapes).

Rib vaulting.

The courtyard of Salisbury Cathedral, complete with cyprus trees planted by Queen Victoria.

The nave of Salisbury Cathedral. I had to include some of the floor and seat so you could get a decent idea of how tall the ceiling is.

The water fountain, with Amanda and Kayla reflected in it.

The clock that has been running for more than 700 years.

The famous spire of Salisbury Cathedral. You can just make out the leaning spire.

After the cathedral, we didn't have much time left, so we just made our way back to the coach. We all agreed that we had had a pretty good day in Salisbury. I am really glad that I went because I learned a lot and saw a lot of really beautiful things. I'm not sure what tomorrow will bring, but I'm sure it will be fun and educational, whatever I do.